It was a great way to end our world trip with 20 members of our family and then 5 extended family members as we all convened in Split, Croatia. We spent the first day gathering and exploring Split. Beautiful smaller town along the water and like all the towns and cities, white cobble stoned paths and roads throughout the country and complimented by the bright blue Adriatic sea. The weather was perfect, sun shining and refreshing water and hills covered in olive trees and wine vineyards and stacked rock walls. Since I had really hadn't even looked into this trip honestly I was so thrilled to find out we would be island hopping the whole time and Backroads, who we did the bike trip with, had their own transport boat with a big sun deck with plenty of room for all of us as we cruised from Island to Island. It was actually idyllic. It was a cruise and bike and sunbathing trip and it was awesome!
First day we explored Split with a guide and learned about the history of the town and explored the old palace and fort of a retired Roman Emperor which is still what makes up the majority of Split. After lunch we boarded our private boat and a couple hours later approached the island of Brač. It turned out to be a larger island than it appeared since we pulled into a little village in a small cover and parked right in front of our hotel in a tiny bay next to a clocktower and church bells. All seemed perfectly charming until the clock struck every hour on the hour all night;) We had our first swim in the Adriatic with it’s clear blue refreshing water followed by exploring the streets and hearing mom belt out a few bars from the choir balcony in the town church ;) Dinner was at the hotel and enjoyed the perfect evening walking around by the water and then hearing the church choir after their practice come out into the courtyard infront of our hotel and sing a few songs. Perfect Croatian night until the clock tower began ringing…. ;)
Nate's luggage got lost, rocking Croatian board shorts
Mom singing a few songs inside the little town church
Family: niece Susie, niece Megan, Uncle Jess, nephew Trevin, daughter and son xox
up top on the roof of the little hotel we stayed at with the beautiful but very noisy bell tower in back :)
Family and Friends
MONDAY:
Today we had a huge ride and all I can say was THANK HEAVENS FOR EBIKES!!!! Honestly don’t know if I could have made it, or at least in the cheerful mood. It was around 6500’ elevation gain and around 45 miles and so many hills, but beautiful riding and it was great to tackle the biggest day first. We had a ton of fun on the bikes and it really allowed everyone to keep up with each other. We had a great day and ended on the other side of the island before we caught a boat to Hvar Island. Great ocean views, delicious stop for some fresh homemade olive oil and bread and then the best dinner of our trip on Hvar- grilled sea bass with just olive oil and sea salt.#mouthwateringgood
Today we had a huge ride and all I can say was THANK HEAVENS FOR EBIKES!!!! Honestly don’t know if I could have made it, or at least in the cheerful mood. It was around 6500’ elevation gain and around 45 miles and so many hills, but beautiful riding and it was great to tackle the biggest day first. We had a ton of fun on the bikes and it really allowed everyone to keep up with each other. We had a great day and ended on the other side of the island before we caught a boat to Hvar Island. Great ocean views, delicious stop for some fresh homemade olive oil and bread and then the best dinner of our trip on Hvar- grilled sea bass with just olive oil and sea salt.#mouthwateringgood
TUESDAY:
Next day we had another long and hilly ride, but so fun again with the ebikes. We biked around Hvar, up and over mountains and down by oceans. Near the start of the ride atop one of the hills there was a woman who sold lavender that she grows and makes sachets and paints glass bowls. Syd bought one and Sam grabbed a biking headband that she randomly was selling too. We stopped for delicious gelato in one of the sea side towns and explored around where we found Syd a fun swim coverup. We biked into a hillside town and stopped at a local’s home who made the most tasty lunch of the trip from veggies in the garden. It was so healthy and tasty. We ended at the Castle/Tower in town which had spectacular views of the city and the harbor. That afternoon I let the girls have some massages while I went to the pool and then down by the sea. Along the waterfront you would have no idea that it wrapped around but it did along a board ward and the coast and beaches are all rocks but they have put lounge chairs amongst the rocks and it would be idyllic to sit there and take it all in. There was also a club that was hopping- must be Yacht week since there were guys in captains hats, and there was full party atmosphere for people in their 20s. Later came back with Syd to show her and we were cracking up. We took a break on the lounges taking in the sea, scenery and the fiesta going down. Really fun. For dinner tonight we went as a family to a roof top seafood restaurant and enjoyed a testy meal and just so fun to be alone just the 5 of us and laugh and just remember the dynamics of a family of 5. It just doesn’t happen that often anymore and it was a joy as a mother to have all my family together. Each one of us is so different from the other but that’s what makes it so fun. We can all basically laugh at each other and we get each other. Love my family!
Next day we had another long and hilly ride, but so fun again with the ebikes. We biked around Hvar, up and over mountains and down by oceans. Near the start of the ride atop one of the hills there was a woman who sold lavender that she grows and makes sachets and paints glass bowls. Syd bought one and Sam grabbed a biking headband that she randomly was selling too. We stopped for delicious gelato in one of the sea side towns and explored around where we found Syd a fun swim coverup. We biked into a hillside town and stopped at a local’s home who made the most tasty lunch of the trip from veggies in the garden. It was so healthy and tasty. We ended at the Castle/Tower in town which had spectacular views of the city and the harbor. That afternoon I let the girls have some massages while I went to the pool and then down by the sea. Along the waterfront you would have no idea that it wrapped around but it did along a board ward and the coast and beaches are all rocks but they have put lounge chairs amongst the rocks and it would be idyllic to sit there and take it all in. There was also a club that was hopping- must be Yacht week since there were guys in captains hats, and there was full party atmosphere for people in their 20s. Later came back with Syd to show her and we were cracking up. We took a break on the lounges taking in the sea, scenery and the fiesta going down. Really fun. For dinner tonight we went as a family to a roof top seafood restaurant and enjoyed a testy meal and just so fun to be alone just the 5 of us and laugh and just remember the dynamics of a family of 5. It just doesn’t happen that often anymore and it was a joy as a mother to have all my family together. Each one of us is so different from the other but that’s what makes it so fun. We can all basically laugh at each other and we get each other. Love my family!
That evening we walked the windy shopping streets of Hvar and I just loved the vibe, the energy and late nights wandering and the light stone paths and buildings everywhere. We met up with my sister Julie and her family and fun to chat and laugh before we headed to bed. It had been a couple of big days.
WEDNESDAY:
This was a fun day as we started with a boat transfer and so we all suited up in swim wear for a three hour transfer and lunch on the boat. Everyone hunkered down into lounges and talked and tanned until we pulled into a cove off one fo the islands and we all jumped off the side of the boat and swam around. We had a fresh and simple lunch on the boat and just loved being out on the water. We were all highly entrained by Jess who has a few lbs to loose pulling a backflip off the upper deck of the ship along with my daughter Syd who just threw a backflip out of no where, cracking us all up. Amazing to swim around and just enjoy such clear water and family and friends. It was sunny and warm and just couldn’t ask for any more. When we arrived we geared up and parked our boat in Vela Luka on Korcula Island. We began a great ride along the cliffs of the ocean and it just reminded me a bit of Big Sur. Sam and the boys took a swim along the way jumping off their bikes at a little pull off by the sea.We paused to take in views of hills and scenery in some ways reminded me of home. At the top of the big climb there was a tiny church that had an old metal door on it with two circles cut from it so it was always open and a cross that looked out over the hills we had just climbed. Just a fun day cruising on the ebikes and after a couple days of big hills, nice to be on an ebike! Fun to see my girls riding together and again just so fun to be with them together and see them as adults interacting. They are my oldest constant companions and as their mother it is so strange to think they are the same little girls that kissed good night for so many years and took on outings and raised. They are so independent. They are so much their own people, but still such a part of me. I admire them, I loved them, they have made me a better person and my reward for my efforts is seeing them as thoughtful adults. We are all always growing, we have different phases and times of growth and discovery, and so it seems like many lives, but that thread of love ties all those times and years together and mends wounds yet allows all our experiences become part of the tapestry of our family that with all it’s colors and textures is beautiful and unique.
This was a fun day as we started with a boat transfer and so we all suited up in swim wear for a three hour transfer and lunch on the boat. Everyone hunkered down into lounges and talked and tanned until we pulled into a cove off one fo the islands and we all jumped off the side of the boat and swam around. We had a fresh and simple lunch on the boat and just loved being out on the water. We were all highly entrained by Jess who has a few lbs to loose pulling a backflip off the upper deck of the ship along with my daughter Syd who just threw a backflip out of no where, cracking us all up. Amazing to swim around and just enjoy such clear water and family and friends. It was sunny and warm and just couldn’t ask for any more. When we arrived we geared up and parked our boat in Vela Luka on Korcula Island. We began a great ride along the cliffs of the ocean and it just reminded me a bit of Big Sur. Sam and the boys took a swim along the way jumping off their bikes at a little pull off by the sea.We paused to take in views of hills and scenery in some ways reminded me of home. At the top of the big climb there was a tiny church that had an old metal door on it with two circles cut from it so it was always open and a cross that looked out over the hills we had just climbed. Just a fun day cruising on the ebikes and after a couple days of big hills, nice to be on an ebike! Fun to see my girls riding together and again just so fun to be with them together and see them as adults interacting. They are my oldest constant companions and as their mother it is so strange to think they are the same little girls that kissed good night for so many years and took on outings and raised. They are so independent. They are so much their own people, but still such a part of me. I admire them, I loved them, they have made me a better person and my reward for my efforts is seeing them as thoughtful adults. We are all always growing, we have different phases and times of growth and discovery, and so it seems like many lives, but that thread of love ties all those times and years together and mends wounds yet allows all our experiences become part of the tapestry of our family that with all it’s colors and textures is beautiful and unique.
That evening we had a dinner up on the top of the hill on the island of Korcula. There in an old stone courtyard off of a family’s country stone house that is hundreds of years old we had a fresh meal prepared and fish roasted over a fire while we hear Klappa singers. The host and head chef is the premier Klappa singer in Dalmatia, or Croatia. It is essentially a group of male acapella singers. They all had black and white striped shirts, something that everyone wore on these islands. We were able to see the sunset from the view and walk along and around the stone walls of the farm land. All the land has to be cleared to grow anything on it and then you can’t imagine it can grow because there still seem to be rocks. But all along the bike rides we have seen countless stone stacked rock walls which have created stepped farming just as a way to clear some land for what is apparently idyllic conditions and soil for wine grapes and olives, which the region is known for. Back at the hotel was entertaining because none of the hotels we stayed in had wifi outside the lobby. And even then it was terrible wifi. So there were 20 of us sharing photos and trying to download email in the lobby each night for about an hour. It also created a fun time to review the day through looking at each other’s photos.
THURSDAY
Our last official day of biking we did a mellow 18 mile ride along the coast, an out and back. It was so scenic and so many spots to jump in which I didn’t because I didn’t want to have to bike in a salty pair of bike shorts but enjoyed watching everyone else. Lots of us rode together and had fun being able to ride with Kendall. She has totally surprised me by how fit she is. She has been a stud and so far ahead of me this trip. She is now training for a triathlon this summer. Another person that was game and ready to ride was Syd, and honestly all of us because we were loving having the bikes :) Sam rocked a real road bike the last couple days and was strong in keeping up with his dad, when all the other cousins were on ebikes. He really likes to ride and I think he might have discovered one of his strengths this year with 3 big bike trips in the past year. My mom too, who is 74, just amazes me. I don’t know if honestly when I am 74 if I am going to want to take a bike trip and ride 20-50 miles a day, even if it is on an ebike and she is just a stud. She takes it at her own pace and sings along the way and listens to her opera music and is such a gamer. Dad 76 has slowed a bit but that means he is about our pace and even if he has become a bit slower than he was before, he still can go all the extra miles where even his grandkids 4 times younger don’t have that endurance. He is a stud! So grateful that they take us on these trips where we enjoy each other, sights, exercise and build our family bonds. Very grateful.
We ended the trip in the small town within the city walls on a small peninsula on the island of Korcula. It was a charming town with again lots of little narrow stone streets and shops. I purchased some tasty olive oil and sea salts and visited a shop that has made filigree jewelry for 500 years where Syd picked out a little ring and some earrings. Kendall and Andrew found a spot outside the wall with a wooden diving board screwed into the rocks and took the plunge before we caught our ferry to the main land. We hopped a coach for the 2 hour ride to Dubrovenik, Croatia’s most famous city. It is a totally walled city with walls 3 meters thick. It was never attacked by sea or land until the most recent fighting against the Serbs 25 years ago where the city was attacked. It is a UNESCO World Heritage site and there are only around 500 people that live in the city year around but thousands flood the city during their tourist summer towns. We arrived at our hotel which is now a Hilton and a restored 100 year old hotel right outside the city walls. It was by far the nicest hotel we stayed at this trip and nice to have all the necessities, yet still no wifi in the rooms. Croatia is just catching up to the rest of Europe, but there is something kind of nice about it too.
The guides gave us one hour before our guided tour would begin. I was gross from biking and then riding in the bus and just quickly changed into my suit and coverup and went down to find a beach. As I was leaving the hotel my girls opened up their window and asked where I was going. They said they wanted to join me. In less than 90 seconds they joined me and we were headed out to the sea.This was honestly my favorite moment of the whole trip. That in some way I had taught my girls to seize an opportunity, they chose to join me, they could transition fast and they were just simply gamers. I told them “way to get your rally caps on” and Kendall said, “rally cats?” and I said, “Yes! Rally Cats, that is what you girls are.” haha It is going to stick. So us three “rally cats” shortly found the spot the hotel suggested. It was perfect. We dropped our coverups and just dove off some rocks and I don’t think cool water ever felt so refreshing. A heatwave had moved in and the water was so clear and so deep and just a beautiful color of blue. We swam way out away from shore and then back in and into a cave like area that opened up to the sky. It was just a perfect moment with two of my favorite people, two who are part of the deepest part of me. We hopped out and began walking back. I just wanted to capture how I felt and the beauty of the moment with these two grown women who were once my babies and now are my most trusted friends.
We had a walking tour of the city. It was such an interesting and spectacular walled city and it all being in white, rather than grey, made it reflect the light and just almost glow. After the Croatian war this was the fist city to be restored, knowing how valuable it was as a UNESCO site and also that I believe it is the number one tourist destination in Croatia. It was a great walk about the city, gave us a great overview and we ended by winding through streets and shopping a bit. The girls I don’t think I have ever bought a decent pair of sunglasses for and Kendall is still wearing some she picked up in high school so I told them I would get them each a pair. Well we got caught up into it and found some amazing ones but couldn’t find just the right pair for Kendall but promised her later we would get her some. Syd was so psyched on her new Miu Mius, which I did make her pay part of since I had never even owned glasses that expensive, and I got some ones I loved too. It just was a fun outing and fun time just trying on things and being together. We raced back and showered before dinner and enjoyed a delicious last dinner in the old walled city on a rooftop.
The girls were leaving early on Friday to make it back to the USA for a full day at home on the 4th of July. Didn’t really get to say goodbye to them since I stayed behind with Nate and Sam while Sam I knew would love the birds that were by the old city entrance. Nate and I parked it there while Sam held 2 of his favorite birds, Cockatoo and Ecelectus. It was nice to sit and watch it all and see Sam in his bird element. It was a great end to a fun trip with everyone.
The ride had officially ended on Friday since half the group left early on Friday. There were about 11 of us left and most of us went up to the city wall and walked the wall right when it opened in the morning. I didn’t even know you could do it, but the guides had left us tickets and so glad we did. The views were incredible. So fun to see outside the walls and inside and down on the city and all the hidden gardens, terraces, and locals homes makeshifted from parts of the old walls and old homes. It took us less than an hour to walk the wall and take pictures and soak in the views. We took a tram up the mountain from just outside the city wall up to the lookout over the city. You could really get a great viewpoint of the walls and city and islands around from there. At the top a fellow was making with an iron press old coins from Dubrovnik that he was making into pendants for necklaces out of brass, silver,.. I thought they made the perfect gift so I purchased several and so did my sisters Julie and Sandy. The guy couldn’t believe it, he was so flustered that we were buying like 15 of these. He kept muttering that he should have had his coffee this morning… he hadn’t sold one the day before and now before 10 a.m. we had almost bought him out. It was so funny. He was saying, praise God. It was all very funny and you can tell this young man was so happy, even after I negotiated a discount for his biggest sale ever. Loved these little gifts with symbols of the old city and a great remembrance from one of our favorite parts of our journey.
Nate, Sam and I left in the early afternoon from Dubrovnik and flew to Paris with Brian, Rachel and Matthew Bertha. We had a layover and checked our bags through to SLC and went into town to a Renaissance hotel near Trocadero Square, a part of town I had never stayed. I had requested this hotel because it was closest to the Eiffel Tower and we wanted to do the night cruise that left from there. Well it turned out to be the right choice. We had dinner at Le Coq, a hip little restaurant on the square and then made our way down to the river through other squares and steps where hundreds of people were gathered with entertainers, tango dancers, game players, and those just hanging out and taking in the atmosphere. It was so fun to wander. We made it onto the 10 p.m. boat cruise which was packed. But as it got going and Nate and Sam and I found three seats together on top we just took in the city at night. It was just getting dark and the city was all lit up. Thousands and thousands of people were gathered along the banks of the river, hanging out, eating, dancing, waving,… it was a scene I hadn’t seen since the bicentennial in DC on the mall for fireworks in 1976. This gathering and ongoing party goes on every weekend in the summer when it is too warm to be inside and people come to the river and to squares and viewpoints throughout the city to hang out and enjoy the summer nights. It really felt magical with musicians and happy voices along the river. Seeing Notre Dame at night all lit up it nearly takes your breath away. On the way back what did take my breath away was when the Eiffel Tower was lit up with almost strobing led lights. It felt like is was New Years. We all just were in awe. Sam was so sweet and put his arm around me, and said “Thank you for this year mom. I love you.” I know this sounds just perfect but it really was just like that and just perfect. It was like a wave of love and an arm of love all wrapped around me. We each wrapped our arm around each other and watched the tower glisten. It felt like a sendoff, marking a most spectacular year together. We have grown so close, so appreciative of each other, relied so much on one another, and just felt a deeper bond and closeness than we could have ever felt or developed any other way than the way we did it this year. We felt like we were being sent home, the eve of the fourth of July by this memorable moment.
As we strolled back to our hotel, we had to stop again when the Bertha’s noticed that the full moon had come out. I was so tired. I just wanted to lay down, which I did on the walk while they took pictures. But before we left I realized, this was my special moment with my son. We had this magical moment on the Seine looking at the tower all lit and now it was made even more jaw dropping as the full moon had just broken through streaks of clouds. I popped up and joined Sam who was taking a picture. We had our picture taken and it just felt perfect. The last photo of our most memorable year.
Oldest hotel in Dubrovnik
Walking the wall around the city of Dubrovnik- spectacular walk and views
So fun, Allie and Riley announced they are having a baby!
A doorway to an amazing walk
Standing guard at the lookout
Loved being able to look down into the city
Handsome hubby
Sisters xox
Selfie with Riley coming through another beautiful arched gateway
This guy was so psyched when we were his biggest sale of the month with his handmade copies of old Dubrovnik coins at the viewpoint overlooking the city
We walked the city walls and then we paddled around the city walls. Great morning in Dubrovnik
"Fishes and the loaves" this sunscreen just kept on giving. Left it with even some to spare.
Last night in Paris on the way home to Utah
So grateful for these past 10 months. It is time to head home and we feel ready to be home and settle down and reconnect with our family and friends at home and game and ready for whatever lies ahead. No idea what, but as I have sung so many times and tear up almost every time I sing this hymn, “Because I have been given much I too must give…” Time to give back again. My cup is full.
Thank you to my loving Heavenly Father for the blessing of being able to take this trip, for protecting us, for bringing us together during it. My husband that without him I wouldn’t have my sweet son and travel buddy and without his 100% support would never have been able to do this and who joined us along the way. Grateful for those he works for in getting it and allowing him the extra time to make this not just about Sam and I but about our family. And to my daughters, who are “rally cats” who seized the moments and who showed gratitude for the opportunities to join us and who are my original travel buddies. For my family, parents and grandparents who have given me the financial opportunity to be able to do this. Thank you to my Savior Jesus Christ for making up the difference on my frailties and short comings and our shared Father in Heaven who together they created this amazing diverse world and all the things in it, above it, on it,…Seeing this world testifies to me of Their greatness and to how all things were created for our good. What we do with them will be our individual choice, but all things that are good come from God and can be used for our good and for our joy. The natural beauty of this world reconfirms to me that He loves us. We must take care of this world, I feel recommitted to that.
I feel recommitted to being more tolerant and find what we agree upon. We must not be greedy and take which is not ours. We must respect life. We must love one another despite our differences and often because of our differences. God made billions of different creations, diversity is endless. But despite all the differences, I believe they all reflect the Love of God and as we respect and give thanks to the Giver and Creator of all things, we will continue to be blessed, we will be inspired to give back or pass those gifts forward. Good will reap good, as we learn in the scriptures.I am grateful that together Sam and I could grow in our faith as we relied upon our Heavenly Father this year and read scriptures together and prayed consistently together and felt many times guided by the spirit to what we should do, where we should go and who we should meet. Grateful that we could attended our LDS churches and temples around the world. We have grown in our faith and in our testimonies.
Thank you for all those that traveled with us through social media, our blogs, emails and those friends and family who we met up along the way with. What a memorable year. Best year of my life. I am ready to see what unfolds next. Looking forward to the next chapter. Thanks for reading this one.
With love and gratitude,
Karen
