This morning Nate and I went up onto the deck with the beautiful morning light and as we pulled into Edfu. As we sailed along early this morning the water was so calm and peaceful and there were just lots of fisherman out fishing in the early morning light and cattle grazing.
We disembarked and got right into horse drawn carriages. The five of us piled onto one carriage and we were pulled to the Temple of Horus in Edfu. This temple was built just a little over 2000 years ago during the time that the Greeks ruled Egypt. This temple was essentially buried under silt and sand for nearly 2000 years and it is why it remains so well intact and the carvings are still intact and not defaced by future Christians or Muslims. This temple is the only ancient one that I have seen a roof on. The roof is enormous and made of sandstone which amazes me that it is still standing. There were many corridors there. Here we learned about the Nileometer- which back in the day would measure the height of the Nile which would determine the taxes, higher water= better crop=higher taxes.
In the afternoon we enjoyed cruising along the Nile, without any hitchhikers trying to sell stuff. Syd and Nate had a massage and after massages joined us on the deck for lunch and sun. It was fun to all lay out on the upper deck, read, play cards, and enjoyed a tasty Egyptian BBQ on the deck for lunch. Sam and I headed down to the room around 3 and did Math homework for a couple hours. Right around sunset we docked again at Esna. Here there was a temple right next to the Nile. It was all lit up with lights and fun to explore.
At the temple in Esna, Kom-Ombo our guide showed us hieroglyphics which showed the Egyptian calendar which had 12 months, 3 seasons - dry, rain, and harvest, and 365 days in a year. 360 days plus 5 for their 5 main gods- Osiris and Isis and their 3 children. This is the calendar that was later adopted by Romans and Greeks and those that invaded Egypt and how we get our calendar we use today. He also showed us another holy of holies rooms where the Pharaoh and the High Priest would meet and rooms where medical work was done, which could be performed by the high priest as well since he would be one that could also create potions and medicines from herbs and flowers. Their were depictions of old medical tools carved into the walls of this room which resemble tools we still use today- put this was over 2000 years ago. This temple was built recognizing the Crocodile god that was a bit of an evil god as it was explained to me but they had to recognize that god and he was to be feared so part of the temple recognizes wicked gods and part recognizes good gods. Near this temple many sarcophagi of crocodile were found mummified. There was a museum next door that had 2000 old mummified crocs inside. It was pretty interesting.
After our temple and croc exploration we were straight up attacked by crazy men selling their wears. Literally handled and after bargaining over some headdress for Syd and scarf for me to wear to the Egyptian costume party tonight we sealed the deal as we were walking on board the boat- nothing like closing the deal as the doors close. Although, we did walk onto the wrong boat since ours had moved and then had to face the craziness for a little longer till we could seek refuge on our boat. Phew…crazy merchants, crazy dealings…most aggressive of anywhere I have been in the world. I think it also must come from there is 1/10th the visitors that have had to prey upon.
On the boat we rented some costumes for the evenings party. It was actually really funny to see us all gilded up in our Egyptian costumes and the whole boat in their costumes. It made for a fun dinner and dancing afterwards. Nate and Sam I think really liked wearing a dress where the air can flow and keep you cool :)
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