Sitting out on the balcony back at our apt in Queenstown and uploading photos from our amazing week on the Melford Track. Wow, if I had only known how much there was to see and do in NZ it wouldn't have taken me 46 years to get here! Tuesday we met early at The Station in Queenstown and boarded the bus with the other 27 people that we would be doing our track with. Along our 4 hour bus ride, we stopped in Te Anau, the last town before you get into the Fjordlands and where all the hikes are. It was a charming town on one of the largest lakes in NZ and is equipped to be the place to get the last of your supplies before heading into the mountains. We had lunch there and then got dropped off at a ferry stop that is just for hikers where a ferry takes you to the far end of Lake Te Anaue. There we threw on our packs, which I am sure mine waged at least 25 lbs and began our hike. We had no idea what to expect the start was lovely, on a gravel path essentially through a lush tropical forest really with a river running along side our path. We only had a little over a mile until we got to our first "hut." Again not knowing what to expect I was more than pleasantly surprised to find that it was a little lodge, with nice bedding, spectacular views and we were served salmon and Elk for dinner! Wondering what the water bottle in the room was for, I found out later in the evening when I was freezing to death in our room. No heat in the lodge and the water bottle I learned to use each night after to heat the bed and to warm my achy feet.
We took a nice group photo and enjoyed a near 2 hour nature walk around the area, learning about the local plant and bird life in the area and visiting a rushing river which we were informed that any moving body of water we could drink and refill our water bottles from. The water was crystal clear and tasted delicious. Our group that evening introduced themselves and where they were from: Korea, Japan, NZ, Australia, and the USA. The ages were varying with the youngest being Sam at age 12 and the oldest being Ellen from Alaska at 74. Let me say first what a total champ Ellen was. She was there with her only child Jennifer who was 35, to find out I went to John Gardeners Tennis Camp with when I was 12 years old. Ellen completed the whole hike, albeit slowly on the 10 mile mountain climb and descent. Despite it taking her almost 12 hours to do that day, it being very steep going up and down and down across jagged rocks, she did it all. I was totally whooped and exhausted that day and the following day was a 13 mile hike. She did it all. New kind of champ in my book!
The following day was just gorgeous, fairly flat with some rolling trails, through lovely flowering meadows and by a few lakes and many waterfalls that were streaming since it had just rained the night before. We could not have been more lucky to have beautiful sunny days that had been preceded by rain, which made the waterfalls flow and freshly frosted the mountain tops. The views took our breath away and photos can't capture the lush green, clear celadon colored waters and granite rocks that were almost white that water cascaded across or we climbed across as we made our way careful around and down several rock slides. The next lodge was right in the valley and snugged in amongst the trees. Each evening they had snacks, a video that highlighted the next day's hike and then a tasty dinner. That evening I learned a game called "500" similar to hearts but you need partners. Tom and his brother Mark and Eve and I played- Aussie and Kiwi group. Each night we crashed in our beds, this time with a water bottle. Sam was engaged in games of Uno with his new friends Sia and her father Kidan (from Indiana) and Melia (an acrobat living and performing in Macao.
The next day we got up early and knew we had a big day ahead of us. Essentially a 5 mile hike up and over McKinnon Pass and then down 5 miles to Sutherland Falls. The hike us was spectacular, and tough. They said 11 long switchbacks but I think it was more like 15, but who was counting... I was! We stopped frequently though and took photos. With our heavy packs, which we carried all we needed for 5 days- much we packed for wet and cold weather which we didn't get, we made it to the top. It was a spectacular reward as we reached the pass and were overcome by the 360 degree views that surrounded us. There is a unique monument/memorial to Quintin Mckinnon that was erected in his honor since many had tried and no one except him was able to find and cut a track over to Melford Sound from the eastern side. We sat on top and enjoyed our drinks and snacks as we admired the glorious views and warm sun. Sam wandered over to the edge and made friends with one of the hikers that was staying in the independent huts. His name was Sven and was a fast hiker and friendly young 18 year old traveling around the world on his own from Hamburg. They exchanged stories while I took in the view. We began our long and arduous hike down, 5 miles down! My feet were so tender by the time we reached the Pamplona Hut that I could nearly cry. We passed several beautiful falls along the way and walked over several rockslides with sharp rocks, where I took a tiny spill, but was hard to get up from.
At the lodge we were all whooped! But, there was the tallest waterfall in the world, an hour and a half hike up to from the lodge. I had to do it. I took off my shoes, and wore Sam's Nike Free's and set out with Melia. She too was whipped and it had taken her longer to walk down but we had to see it. We set off on the 2.5 mile hike and up a big climb but then it flattened out and we ran into Sven. He was so happy go lucky, it was refreshing to be with him. We were all blown away by the sheet magnitude, height and amount of water slamming down from over a half mile above. The water sprayed everywhere and you couldn't really capture it from close because there was so much spray. But we tried, as you can see my photo below, it just drenched us but felt great and a wonderful reward to a beautiful but hard day. We made it back and I couldn't believe how much my feet hurt- the hardest thing I think I have ever done.
That night I washed our clothes and hung in the drying rooms, which is a great way to conserve bringing too many clothes, since each day we essentially wore the same clothes, but could wash and dry each night. We enjoyed dinner and visiting. That night I slept as soundly as I ever have and stayed warm. Sam and I took turns rubbing each others feet and then I heated them on the water bottle and then crashed cold.
The next morning we had a 13 mile hike to the "finish line" at Sandfly Point. We literally knelt and prayed that morning that we could do it. My feet thankfully felt better, I stuffed my socks and around my toes with Sheep's Wool, which NZ hikers swear buy and I bought in the hiking shop before we left. I was so thankful. It kept me able to walk on my achy feet the next 13+ miles to get to Sandfly point where we would catch the ferry to Melford Sound where our last hotel would be. We had to make either a 3 p.m. or 4 p.m. ferry so not much hanging out today. Sam and I headed out with head down, we knew we had to keep a quick pace and we were cooking today. We walked fast and steady and thankfully the track was fairly smooth and flat most of the way. We had a great stop at the Boat House where we took our longest breaks. Thankfully there was a bathroom there and had a cold drink. The Boat House is where back in the day they would take hikers over the lake by boat. Now they have a suspended bridge. Tom, the Aussie in the group, was always wanting to hop in the lakes. I told him I would buy him a drink if he jumped off the suspended bridge into the cold but beautiful water below, where we could see a large eel swimming. Well, the drink offer took, and he stripped down into his suit, climbed the bridge and took the plunge. To all our entertainment and good laughs several others followed. I just couldn't find it in me to be freezing, but loved that we had some good fun gamers in the group. Thankfully Jon, our US Coast Guard friend, took the plunge representing the States- "good on ya mate," as Tom the Aussie would say ;)
Following the bridge jump there was another spectacular falls named McCay Falls which was named after Sutherland's partner. They were the ones that found the initial track from the Sound to the falls but could not get over the pass, which McKinnon was able to do and is then given credit as the founder of the Melford Track. These falls were so picturesque and again my photos don't even touch on the beauty since this falls has a gorgeous green blue pool below them. Lunch spot was at almost the 31 mile mark, over 10 miles of hiking to get there. We enjoyed the views, although not too close since it was spraying quite a spray too and several sand flies which we were trying to avoid the bites. We sat on the rocks and enjoyed the beauty before gearing up for our last push. Sam and I were determined to finish strong and not let anyone pass us on the final stretch. We pushed out and kept a great pace. The last .75 miles was a bear, but we made it with 2 mins to spare before the first ferry left. We hopped aboard after taking a quick pick at the "Finish Line" and 33.5 mile marker of the Melford Track and hopped aboard the ferry that took us through a Fjord, lined with mountains and views and clear waters. We came to the ferry terminal and caught a ride to our hotel for the night. There we collapsed, taking off our packs for the last time. It felt great. Sam rested for a bit while I changed and ran over to book a cheaper flight with a small airplane, half the price of the helicopter that Ultimate Hikes was offering us. That booked I came back and had appetizers with Michael and Georgiana and Jon and had a good laugh at how totally exhausted and sore we were. It was hard to get up and get back to the room where thankfully they had tubs. I bought bath salts and soaked in a hot tub #HEAVEN. We dressed for dinner and enjoyed sitting with many of those that we had gotten to know well over the trip. After dinner we were given certificates of completion of the Melford Track and informed about the plans for the next day. Sam played cards with Sia and Melia and I visited with our friends and heard stories from Tom about catching snakes and like in Western Australia. So funny, and so easy to give a hard time. It was a fun evening.
This morning we woke, gave back our packs we borrowed for the hike and poles, and then boarded the Melford Sound cruise liner that took us out on a 1.5 bike ride to the ocean. We saw seals and jumping dolphins along the way out by the Tasman Sea. Waterfalls were flowing, although not as much as they had the days before since now it had been 4 days since the rains, and enjoyed the majestic mountains that soar out from the Melford Sound and Sea. Just a perfect day and wrap to a great trip. We said our goodbyes to our new friends, including the newly weds from Tokyo that got married in Queenstown the day before they started the Track :) Note, that is not my idea for a honeymoon, but a great adventure for the couple to start their new life together remembering. We caught a small 5 passenger plane to Queenstown following our hiking path back towards Te Anau and then into Queenstown. It was amazing and gave me an even greater sense of accomplishment as I saw where we hiked and flew over the pass which was our most scenic yet arduous day.
After arriving in Queenstown we walked over to the car rental place and there called End Zone, the Sky Diving company and asked if we could take our jump today rather than waiting for Monday. They said come on over. We hopped in our rental and drove out to the airstrip and End Zone Sky Diving Center. We got a 3 minute review of what our position should be in the Sky when we jump, we got our suits, we met our tandem jumper who would take us and before we could freak out we climbed into the plane with 10 other jumpers and were 12,000 feet in the air!!!!! I must say I like to know everything before I go and I was a little nervous. Sam was at the front of the plane, last in, first out and before I knew it, the door was slid open and I saw Sam roll out of the plane!!!!! Oh my heavens. I was third and the guy said put your feet out, wrap them around the bar below the plane and here we go!!! What?!! I am free falling, it felt at first a lot like the bunny and then we flattened out and then my hands were out, and we were spinning! Oh my, not crazy about spinning, we spun about 6 times and then straightened out and then still falling, but feeling more suspended and then poof, shoot up and we go flying straight up above the cameraman that is shooting us. Whoa.....! Then it was so peaceful and could really take in the sights and struck by the gorgeous bright blue water from above and the green pastures and mountain scapes. We swerved around a bit coming towards our target which made me a bit nauseous and then he said feet up we are doing a standing landing, my feet were up and we seemed as if we were hauling into our landing but the last minute he pulled up and I just stood on my feet!! It was like before I knew what was happening it was done. Very exhilarating, not as scary as bungy jumping, made me nauseous unlike bungy, but glad I did it. Don't need to do it again. Sam was there waiting for me all smiles and just loving it. He had a blast, so darn brave, was ready to go again!! I had to sit down and stop spinning but now I can look back at it and say it was another great adventure that we partook of in NZ. This is the home of adventure. Go big or go home! We went big, and it has been such a great ride here in NZ. Looking forward to the day of rest tomorrow and church.
Tomorrow evening here in Queenstown Devon Graham, a youtube sensation for extreme videos, is speaking and doing a fireside on following your passion. He is a member of our LDS Church and will speak at the Hilton in town at 7 p.m. It should be a great evening. We saw him today as we were boarding our ferry and said hello and told him we were looking forward to seeing him tomorrow. He was headed out on his own boat to shoot some footage. Can't wait to see what he is filming. He is amazing. It will be a great night. Monday we will head out and do the last of our adventure activities- Shotover Jetboat. We just had to get caught up tonight and after a lot of motion today, happy to be on the ground and relaxing.
We took a nice group photo and enjoyed a near 2 hour nature walk around the area, learning about the local plant and bird life in the area and visiting a rushing river which we were informed that any moving body of water we could drink and refill our water bottles from. The water was crystal clear and tasted delicious. Our group that evening introduced themselves and where they were from: Korea, Japan, NZ, Australia, and the USA. The ages were varying with the youngest being Sam at age 12 and the oldest being Ellen from Alaska at 74. Let me say first what a total champ Ellen was. She was there with her only child Jennifer who was 35, to find out I went to John Gardeners Tennis Camp with when I was 12 years old. Ellen completed the whole hike, albeit slowly on the 10 mile mountain climb and descent. Despite it taking her almost 12 hours to do that day, it being very steep going up and down and down across jagged rocks, she did it all. I was totally whooped and exhausted that day and the following day was a 13 mile hike. She did it all. New kind of champ in my book!
The following day was just gorgeous, fairly flat with some rolling trails, through lovely flowering meadows and by a few lakes and many waterfalls that were streaming since it had just rained the night before. We could not have been more lucky to have beautiful sunny days that had been preceded by rain, which made the waterfalls flow and freshly frosted the mountain tops. The views took our breath away and photos can't capture the lush green, clear celadon colored waters and granite rocks that were almost white that water cascaded across or we climbed across as we made our way careful around and down several rock slides. The next lodge was right in the valley and snugged in amongst the trees. Each evening they had snacks, a video that highlighted the next day's hike and then a tasty dinner. That evening I learned a game called "500" similar to hearts but you need partners. Tom and his brother Mark and Eve and I played- Aussie and Kiwi group. Each night we crashed in our beds, this time with a water bottle. Sam was engaged in games of Uno with his new friends Sia and her father Kidan (from Indiana) and Melia (an acrobat living and performing in Macao.
The next day we got up early and knew we had a big day ahead of us. Essentially a 5 mile hike up and over McKinnon Pass and then down 5 miles to Sutherland Falls. The hike us was spectacular, and tough. They said 11 long switchbacks but I think it was more like 15, but who was counting... I was! We stopped frequently though and took photos. With our heavy packs, which we carried all we needed for 5 days- much we packed for wet and cold weather which we didn't get, we made it to the top. It was a spectacular reward as we reached the pass and were overcome by the 360 degree views that surrounded us. There is a unique monument/memorial to Quintin Mckinnon that was erected in his honor since many had tried and no one except him was able to find and cut a track over to Melford Sound from the eastern side. We sat on top and enjoyed our drinks and snacks as we admired the glorious views and warm sun. Sam wandered over to the edge and made friends with one of the hikers that was staying in the independent huts. His name was Sven and was a fast hiker and friendly young 18 year old traveling around the world on his own from Hamburg. They exchanged stories while I took in the view. We began our long and arduous hike down, 5 miles down! My feet were so tender by the time we reached the Pamplona Hut that I could nearly cry. We passed several beautiful falls along the way and walked over several rockslides with sharp rocks, where I took a tiny spill, but was hard to get up from.
At the lodge we were all whooped! But, there was the tallest waterfall in the world, an hour and a half hike up to from the lodge. I had to do it. I took off my shoes, and wore Sam's Nike Free's and set out with Melia. She too was whipped and it had taken her longer to walk down but we had to see it. We set off on the 2.5 mile hike and up a big climb but then it flattened out and we ran into Sven. He was so happy go lucky, it was refreshing to be with him. We were all blown away by the sheet magnitude, height and amount of water slamming down from over a half mile above. The water sprayed everywhere and you couldn't really capture it from close because there was so much spray. But we tried, as you can see my photo below, it just drenched us but felt great and a wonderful reward to a beautiful but hard day. We made it back and I couldn't believe how much my feet hurt- the hardest thing I think I have ever done.
That night I washed our clothes and hung in the drying rooms, which is a great way to conserve bringing too many clothes, since each day we essentially wore the same clothes, but could wash and dry each night. We enjoyed dinner and visiting. That night I slept as soundly as I ever have and stayed warm. Sam and I took turns rubbing each others feet and then I heated them on the water bottle and then crashed cold.
The next morning we had a 13 mile hike to the "finish line" at Sandfly Point. We literally knelt and prayed that morning that we could do it. My feet thankfully felt better, I stuffed my socks and around my toes with Sheep's Wool, which NZ hikers swear buy and I bought in the hiking shop before we left. I was so thankful. It kept me able to walk on my achy feet the next 13+ miles to get to Sandfly point where we would catch the ferry to Melford Sound where our last hotel would be. We had to make either a 3 p.m. or 4 p.m. ferry so not much hanging out today. Sam and I headed out with head down, we knew we had to keep a quick pace and we were cooking today. We walked fast and steady and thankfully the track was fairly smooth and flat most of the way. We had a great stop at the Boat House where we took our longest breaks. Thankfully there was a bathroom there and had a cold drink. The Boat House is where back in the day they would take hikers over the lake by boat. Now they have a suspended bridge. Tom, the Aussie in the group, was always wanting to hop in the lakes. I told him I would buy him a drink if he jumped off the suspended bridge into the cold but beautiful water below, where we could see a large eel swimming. Well, the drink offer took, and he stripped down into his suit, climbed the bridge and took the plunge. To all our entertainment and good laughs several others followed. I just couldn't find it in me to be freezing, but loved that we had some good fun gamers in the group. Thankfully Jon, our US Coast Guard friend, took the plunge representing the States- "good on ya mate," as Tom the Aussie would say ;)
Following the bridge jump there was another spectacular falls named McCay Falls which was named after Sutherland's partner. They were the ones that found the initial track from the Sound to the falls but could not get over the pass, which McKinnon was able to do and is then given credit as the founder of the Melford Track. These falls were so picturesque and again my photos don't even touch on the beauty since this falls has a gorgeous green blue pool below them. Lunch spot was at almost the 31 mile mark, over 10 miles of hiking to get there. We enjoyed the views, although not too close since it was spraying quite a spray too and several sand flies which we were trying to avoid the bites. We sat on the rocks and enjoyed the beauty before gearing up for our last push. Sam and I were determined to finish strong and not let anyone pass us on the final stretch. We pushed out and kept a great pace. The last .75 miles was a bear, but we made it with 2 mins to spare before the first ferry left. We hopped aboard after taking a quick pick at the "Finish Line" and 33.5 mile marker of the Melford Track and hopped aboard the ferry that took us through a Fjord, lined with mountains and views and clear waters. We came to the ferry terminal and caught a ride to our hotel for the night. There we collapsed, taking off our packs for the last time. It felt great. Sam rested for a bit while I changed and ran over to book a cheaper flight with a small airplane, half the price of the helicopter that Ultimate Hikes was offering us. That booked I came back and had appetizers with Michael and Georgiana and Jon and had a good laugh at how totally exhausted and sore we were. It was hard to get up and get back to the room where thankfully they had tubs. I bought bath salts and soaked in a hot tub #HEAVEN. We dressed for dinner and enjoyed sitting with many of those that we had gotten to know well over the trip. After dinner we were given certificates of completion of the Melford Track and informed about the plans for the next day. Sam played cards with Sia and Melia and I visited with our friends and heard stories from Tom about catching snakes and like in Western Australia. So funny, and so easy to give a hard time. It was a fun evening.
This morning we woke, gave back our packs we borrowed for the hike and poles, and then boarded the Melford Sound cruise liner that took us out on a 1.5 bike ride to the ocean. We saw seals and jumping dolphins along the way out by the Tasman Sea. Waterfalls were flowing, although not as much as they had the days before since now it had been 4 days since the rains, and enjoyed the majestic mountains that soar out from the Melford Sound and Sea. Just a perfect day and wrap to a great trip. We said our goodbyes to our new friends, including the newly weds from Tokyo that got married in Queenstown the day before they started the Track :) Note, that is not my idea for a honeymoon, but a great adventure for the couple to start their new life together remembering. We caught a small 5 passenger plane to Queenstown following our hiking path back towards Te Anau and then into Queenstown. It was amazing and gave me an even greater sense of accomplishment as I saw where we hiked and flew over the pass which was our most scenic yet arduous day.
After arriving in Queenstown we walked over to the car rental place and there called End Zone, the Sky Diving company and asked if we could take our jump today rather than waiting for Monday. They said come on over. We hopped in our rental and drove out to the airstrip and End Zone Sky Diving Center. We got a 3 minute review of what our position should be in the Sky when we jump, we got our suits, we met our tandem jumper who would take us and before we could freak out we climbed into the plane with 10 other jumpers and were 12,000 feet in the air!!!!! I must say I like to know everything before I go and I was a little nervous. Sam was at the front of the plane, last in, first out and before I knew it, the door was slid open and I saw Sam roll out of the plane!!!!! Oh my heavens. I was third and the guy said put your feet out, wrap them around the bar below the plane and here we go!!! What?!! I am free falling, it felt at first a lot like the bunny and then we flattened out and then my hands were out, and we were spinning! Oh my, not crazy about spinning, we spun about 6 times and then straightened out and then still falling, but feeling more suspended and then poof, shoot up and we go flying straight up above the cameraman that is shooting us. Whoa.....! Then it was so peaceful and could really take in the sights and struck by the gorgeous bright blue water from above and the green pastures and mountain scapes. We swerved around a bit coming towards our target which made me a bit nauseous and then he said feet up we are doing a standing landing, my feet were up and we seemed as if we were hauling into our landing but the last minute he pulled up and I just stood on my feet!! It was like before I knew what was happening it was done. Very exhilarating, not as scary as bungy jumping, made me nauseous unlike bungy, but glad I did it. Don't need to do it again. Sam was there waiting for me all smiles and just loving it. He had a blast, so darn brave, was ready to go again!! I had to sit down and stop spinning but now I can look back at it and say it was another great adventure that we partook of in NZ. This is the home of adventure. Go big or go home! We went big, and it has been such a great ride here in NZ. Looking forward to the day of rest tomorrow and church.
Tomorrow evening here in Queenstown Devon Graham, a youtube sensation for extreme videos, is speaking and doing a fireside on following your passion. He is a member of our LDS Church and will speak at the Hilton in town at 7 p.m. It should be a great evening. We saw him today as we were boarding our ferry and said hello and told him we were looking forward to seeing him tomorrow. He was headed out on his own boat to shoot some footage. Can't wait to see what he is filming. He is amazing. It will be a great night. Monday we will head out and do the last of our adventure activities- Shotover Jetboat. We just had to get caught up tonight and after a lot of motion today, happy to be on the ground and relaxing.
Along our drive to Melford, fields of sheep- over 30,000,000 sheep in the country
In Te Anau before the hike next to a rare bird we were hoping to see while on our hike, ...no such luck
Along the hike the first day next to Hidden Lake
The third day hike was just spectacular as we climbed and descended these mountain ranges
On a ship going into the Melford Sound on Jan 24th
Waterfall in the Melford Sound
Flying over where we hiked on the last day of the Track
Looking down from our flight back to Queenstown on the pass that we hiked up and over and there little hut there is the shelter in case it is a rainy day where you can stop and eat lunch
Sky Diving!
Boat ride out to the start of the Track on Day 1
Start of the Track
First Lodge the Glade House on the Track
On our first day Nature Walk we walked through a forest that reminded me of the Red Woods
The water is so clean and clear we can drink right from the rivers-- Sam trying it out on our first day hike
First day on the Melford Track
These little birds were all along the Track the first 2 days
Crossing one of dozens of suspended bridges that have been constructed for this Track
Ready for our first big day of hiking
The Stoat that has been eating all the Kiwis, there are traps along the Track to catch them
Infant of the lodge with its spectacular view on the first day
The only wild beat in New Zealand
Super Hiker Sam
First day lunch spot, we were ready for a snack and enjoyed the view
These funny looking birds we saw all along the track, near our lunch stops, look almost like chickens
All geared up on our third day for our big up and down hike over the pass with our friends Ketan, Siya, and Melia
The climb continues up many switch backs but with the most spectacular views
Almost to the top!
At the bottom of the big climb on a helipad that is put in next to one of the huts where a helicopter can make rescues or drop supplies
We made it to the top on the 3rd day!
Looking onto a glacier at the top
The monument at the top of the pass that recognizes Quintin Mackinnon as the one that founded the trail and discovered the route through this pass
Headed down after the pass
As we got lower on our hike, the trail became mossy and lush again as we began hiking down waterfalls and over rockslides and rivers
At the end of the 3rd day we could see the Sutherland Falls, I dropped my pack at the hut and headed out on the 1.5 round trip hike to go see it- HUGE and majestic, as the tallest waterfall in New Zealand.
Lunch spot on the last 13+ mile hike day overlooking this gorgeous waterfall and pool
At the finish line! We made it! We added a few more miles to this and with the Sutherland Falls hike we completed over 38 miles with most of the hiking done in 3 days. Such a beautiful and great adventure
On the ferry over to the Melford Sound and our last hotel. We are done hiking and now time for some cruising on the Sound
After flying back to Queenstown we drove over and decided that with the perfect weather we best go Sky Diving and check it off our adventure seeking list... Sam loved it, I was happy to have had the experience but don't need to do it again. Looking down over the lake as we were free falling and then floating was very stunning with the bright blue waters and the Remarkable Mountains.
Me flying high over the Lake
In the plane ready to jump
Sam super pumped to jump
Sam hanging loose over the Remarkables. He loved Sky Diving!!!
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