Mother and Son Make The World Their Classroom for a School Year: March 26, 2015 (Varanasi to Delhi, India)

We rose early and made our way through the streets of Varanasi to Kashi Vishwanath Temple, probably the most dangerous part of the city, but the most important temple in the city. There have been 5 bomb blasts there in the past few years by Muslims. There is a tension in this area since there is a mosque right next door to it that was a Hindu temple and was torn down and replaced with a mosque using the same materials from the Hindu temple.

In order to get into Kashi you have to be Hindu. Although if you are a foreigner you may go in but you have to prove yourself safe and worthy to enter into the temple. We had to bring our passports and were interrogated by a police officer. He asked if I was Hindu. I said I wasn’t but had respect.He asked several questions and wasn't’ going to let us in since I wasn’t Hindu and didn't worship Shiva, I said that was fine and I respected his decision. I think that threw him, which shows I do have respect for their holy places. He decided to let us in and took down our passport numbers and allowed us to go. We purchased flowers and holy milk with some kind of herb in it - traditional offerings- and then went through the security line where we were patted down. You can't bring in any electronics, and you wear no shoes, socks or hats.

As we walked into the Kashi Vishawanath temple there were dozens of people trying to get to the alter area where a priest was sitting next to a font of sorts that people were throwing their offerings …water and flowers and milk and herb offerings into and then also would give some money to the priest. The priest would then put the wood paste on your forehead as a blessing. People were pushing and it was total chaos. I was able to toss the flowers and milk in but money dropped out and the priest grabbed it before it became buried in the trough of flowers and liquids. One woman was getting yelled for touching the symbolic male and female parts of the shrine- symbols of the power of Shiva. After people tossed in their offerings they were forced out by officers and it felt like people were going to be trampled. They were trying to keep things moving but it was chaos since these people really wanted to get into the inner shrine area and were shoving and reaching,...

Sam spilt some of his milk trying to get it into the alter area and then the money he couldn’t reach to give the priest. Our guide sent him back in to give the money to the priest and get a blessing. The guard was funny, he grabbed Sam and pushed him up to the offering area where the priest sat at the back of the alter and the officer gave the money to the priest and then the priest swiped Sam’s head with this holy mud like substance- the blessing. The police officer gave Sam a big smile- like good job boy.

The experience was crazy but also cool to have made it in and then out of the place. The temple is gilded on top with real gold and they believe it is here that Shiva had come and that is what makes it a holy place. There were other blessings going on by other priests there and blessing families. Again this is the their holy 9 days and if you are starting a business or trying to get pregnant or have things that you need special blessings for, this would be the place to come. When we walked out there were probably 200 people waiting in line to get in. Thank heavens we came early and then beat the bigger crowds.

When we finished we walked through the town and to a lookout spot over the Ganges at the top of a Hostel. There we could see smoke coming up from the cremation ghat. We chose to go down and walk around. Cremation is performed by the people in the lowest caste, called the Untouchables. These people are born into their caste and although things are changing and money is king and some of them are wealthy, they are born into a caste and a calling to do certain work. Some have overcome their status and been very successful but many still live withint the stifling control of the castes and do the worst jobs. We walked to where there was a group of women standing. Women can’t come right up to where the bodies are being burned. This group of women were there to mourn their aunt that died in a traffic accident yesterday. They were 60 km away and they hired a cart and came right away with the body to Varanasi for her cremation.

There was another man that was there to represent his family and take care of the death arrangements, usually the youngest son, and he was having his head shaved before going down to the water and to the cremation area. They cast their hair into the water as well, part of the 13 days of mourning when the spirit is still near the family.

We walked out near the main cremation area and they were unwrapping a man clothed in brightly colored silk and preparing him for cremation. There was another body there that was almost all burned and the man was there smashing the rest of the body that wasn’t totally burned with a long bamboo stick. They believe in smashing the body and the head the memories are forgotten, which apparently is a good thing. It was all wild and surreal.

We were also shown where they keep the fire to light the wood. It is a place that was supposedly lit by Shiva himself thousands of years ago and our guide’s friend is the literal keeper of the flame. The whole experience was like I was in a parallel universe. There were also men from the lowest caste walking with heavy loads of wood on their shoulders up dozens of steps from the water, stacking it up above the ghat. It made me feel literally how these people have such a heavy cross to bear- what a strenuous difficult life.

There were cows all over and some a bit testy too since they hadn’t been fed. Ironically we came across a shrine to Shiva and a little calf, cow is the symbol of Shiva, standing in the little shrine taking in the shade.

We made our way out of the city and to the main roads and said farewell to our guide Sanjay. He was friendly and informative and nice to have a real local take us around. As a boy he grew up swimming in the Ganges regularly. Sam asked him if he was ever afraid of having one of the dead bodies pop up and touch him when he was swimming. He said no, but had to be careful during some season because they bodies would begin to rise up- I think that was in the monsoon season. Yikes! NO swimming in the Ganges for me.

The rest of the morning we did blog and relaxed at the hotel and had breakfast before heading to the airport. We arrived in Delhi around 5 p.m. and were greeted by the JW Marriott Delhi. As we arrived at the hotel, right near the airport, we were greeted by literally a host of staff from the hotel and rose pedals and incense and a silk red scarf that was held above us as we entered. It was the most royal welcome we've experienced. The hotel is a beautiful new hotel and they graciously showed us to our room and later around the hotel. We took an evening tour of the hotel and decided on the restaurant that had an elaborate Indian menu. I decided tonight I needed to eat all Indian food and better understand their food and how you eat it and what I like. It has always intimidated me with the different textures and colors and I can't eat food that is too spicy so I truly haven't eaten Indian food except when I was last in India. The chef brought up several courses so I could taste all the different dips and sauces and entrees. Most of it was very spicy but so tasty as well. I really liked everything he brought out- even things I was sure by looking at the them I wouldn’t like, but I did like! Sam was in for some but they also had other kinds of food at the buffet and he broke out and had to have some pizza too ;)

As we came back to our rooms we were ready for bed and content from a big dinner. We were greeted by monogrammed robes on our beds- seriously though. Again too generous.

Early morning walking streets of Varanasi to the Kashi V temple. They aren't crowded yet but the cows are up and are ready to be fed.

view down onto the cremation ghat where we will go explore after

Male and female symbols which is Shiva's religious symbol and you can see these all over the city in tiny shrines in nooks in the walls or in temples

A man who carries these immensely heaven logs from the water where they are brought by boat and climbs dozens of stairs to stack above the ghat for cremations

Man coming from washing and purifying in the Ganges stops to show respects to the Shiva statue inside this small temple along the Ganges

Women standing just off from the cremation grounds where they watch their aunt being cremated

Shiva shrine with symbol of Shiva, the cow

A son likely of someone who has died who is doing the ceremonial shaving on his head in respect to his loved one and will put in the Ganges as an offering to Shiva