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Monday, March 9, 2015

March 9 - March 15, 2015 Vietnam/Cambodia Bike Trip with Backroads

March 9
The day started early with a 6 a.m. departure from the hotel. We hopped a flight to Hue. From the Hue Airport we literally hopped on our bikes and began our cycling. We rode about 35k today through rice paddies and fishing villages and by beaches sprinkled with fishing boats. We stopped and had lunch and enjoyed visiting as a group. When we arrived at our hotel in Hue we hopped in the pool to cool off. Sam was the first one to the hotel on his bike. He and our veitanmase guide Dragon sprinted here. I rode the last 8 miles and Sam powered it with Dragon and got to the hotel before our van did. He was there with a big smile at the hotel. So awesome to see him cooking. He said that he trusted Dragon and went cruising through town and a HUGE line up of scooters and just cut write through he lineup and it was so fun, like parting of the Red Sea ;) In the evening we went over to the Emperors Citadel. Hue had been the Capitol of Vietnam for around 120 years or so. We were able to walk through some of the area which was called the Forbidden City, where only the King and his family and the concubines and the Unices- something new I had never heard of before- the castrated male assistants were able to be. The old palace and the citadel walls have been restored and you can imagine in some way what it would have been like in the early 1800s when the Emperor was living there. 



Tonight we are relaxing at the hotel and having dinner.

March 10
Rode bicycles out of town and through many villages. The children that were riding their bikes to school rode with us for a ways, teaching me words in Vietnamese and I was teaching them words in English. The girls were adorable and so cute. Rode for about 15 mins with them chatting and biking. We rode by many ancestor worship temples. All the temples are 100times nicer than their homes. All the money is put into these temples where families will gather once a year for a big reunion where they celebrate their family. Most of the money given for these temples is given by family living over seas. We rode onto a hill where we looked down on the town and river, so the best views and pieces of property are saved for the dead. We stopped at the Emperor's tomb which was elaborately built and the masoleum was artistically decorated in ceramic and glass mosaics called Bas-Relief. The style almost seemed Gaudi like with 3D dragons popping out from columns. For lunch we stopped and had a traditional meal serenaded by local instruments and singers, including the one string harp. Dinner tonight was at the grandson of the last Mandarin in Hue. They had vacated the home during the war and when was the end of Mandarins, who were like the political assistants to the Emperor. Outside of being a royal family member, this was the most significant and important job. This home has been totally rebuilt by the grandson and now they invite people in and serve dinner in the garden courtyard. The gentleman is an architect and so friendly and incredible artistic, and also a wood carver and painter. We enjoyed our night with him in his home. His wife and others helped prepare the meal.

March 11
We hopped a ride for a couple hours where we then jumped on our bikes for a long day of biking. We biked along the ocean and then up a 10 kilometer mountain and then down the mountain and through a seaside town. I got off at about  4km being so hot i couldn't handle it, and Sam and Nate and Ben and the others pushed it up the mountain. Sam never stopped and was the third to got to the top. Kevin our guide said he was the youngest rider to ever finish the climb. He was so awesome. It was a big mountain and Sam conquered it! As we biked along the ocean we saw hundreds of fishing boats and then basket boats- which act almost as a dingy to get from the beach to the fishing boat. We enjoyed snapping photos. The long ride ended just past a huge stunning Goddess of Mercy statue that sits on a hill overlooking the ocean. We arrived for lunch at a hotel beach restaurant where we din't have to be asked twice if we wanted to swim before lunch. Quick switch into my suit and we enjoyed sitting in the pool for an hour before lunch was served. Following lunch we promptly hopped onto a bus and were driven to our hotel, the Nam Hai.

The Nam Hai is the hotel my daughter was telling us about when she came to Vietnam a few years ago. It has the most spectacular pools I have ever seen- gigantic reflecting pools tiering down to the beach. The rooms are luxurious villas which sit right on the beach. I couldn't believe the contrast of the surroundings to our hotel. It has been here for 9 years and it is truly one of the nicest hotels I have ever stayed it.

March 12
Today we had a rice paddy riding day. We biked past miles of bright green rice paddies and people working in the fields and fishing. It was so beautiful and green and lush. We took a moment to get off our bikes and walk around the War Memorial built honoring those soldiers that died who were fighting for the North during the American war. Interestingly enough, there are no war memorials for those that died that fought for the South or anyone that was on the American side.

We caught a boat from one side of the river to the other and then rode our bikes through the old part of Hoi An. It is a charming french colonial style town with many little charming shops and flowers and all along the river with several charming bridges. Once we made it through town we opted for a ride back to the hotel. At the hotel we made a quick change and headed to the pool. Nate and I enjoyed a massage at the spa after, one of the nicest spas and massages I have ever had. We changed and headed for dinner.

In town we attended a cooking class. It was really fun as we made spring rolls and pancake rolls and chicken satay. Vietnamese ingredients are so fresh and tasty and fairly light. We enjoyed eating what we made and then moved to another table where we were served some soup and dessert. We took some time to explore the city of lanterns at night after dinner. It was bustling and such a charming town all lit up with lanterns and lights floating down the river and lights on the bridges. It looked like a completely different town at night.

March 13
Today was a mellow day and needed down day at the Nam Hai. I just woke up earl and had breakfast and hung by the pool and walked on beach with Nate. For lunch we went into town and had a chance to explore around this charming French influenced city Hoi An and see some the sites and peak into the shops. Yvette and I broke off after lunch and discovered a really beautiful temple filled with mosaic dragon sculptures. Many in our group picked up the last of their suits and shirts they had made at local tailors and we headed to the airport for our flight to Siem Reap, Cambodia. We arrived at Raffles Grand Hotel which was a charming old colonial hotel with most importantly another great pool. After dinner we all crashed since we were on the bikes early the next morning.


March 14
We started early biking to several different temples. Today was a highlight day for me. Loved seeing the commonly known as "Tomb Raider" temple where Angelina Jolie filmed her movie a decade or so ago. It was overgrown by huge trees and gigantic roots are all over the temple grounds and along the walls. It was a Buddhist temple with the lotus flowers on top of all the cone shaped towers and fun to explore around. The trees that grew in and through this temple kind of crumbled a lot of it, but always cool to come around a corner and find a little shrine and some beautiful carvings and colonnades. 

We biked to another temple which I just loved that had heads of Buddha, with the face of the king that built the temple, on all 4 sides of each cylindrical tower. These towers look like corn on the cob and are distinctive to the architecture of the Khmer Empire, when this area was the center of the kingdom of most of South East Asia. There were many monks visiting the temple at the same time and they were so friendly. They wanted us in their pictures, which made me think they must come from remote areas and not see as many foreigners. We enjoyed our interchange with them and every corner there was just another incredible photo. 

We rode through the large temple gates to another temple complex and along a huge wall that was built as a stadium for the king and the people  to watch events in the large grassy complex that the wall enclosed. The wall was lined with depictions of elephants, the royal animal. We made our way to a temple where a Buddhist monk in the tradition of the area (really more of a Hindu tradition) performed a water blessing on our group. There was a family that was having a blessing performed before us so we got an idea how it was going to go down. We were instructed we weren't going to have to take our clothes off, good or bad I am not sure since I was so hot I would be almost ok with it. But a father held his cute little naked kids which the monk chanted and threw water on them for about 10 mins and then some water on the scooter. Apparently people bring their cars and motorbikes and anything of value to also be blessed here, so that was a curve ball. We then saw two guys in long shirts and pants and their new truck get blessed..:) It was then our turn and we all lined up shoulder to shoulder on the steps. We were told it was a time to focus on what we stood in need of, meditate on what we need and what we are thankful for. Of course all moms heads were down and focused, dads were a little more loosy goosy about it but we took the opportunity to receive blessings and meditate. It was shocking at first when the first bowl of water was tossed but then it was so refreshing and really felt the power of all of us there praying and meditating on our loved ones and giving thanks. It was actually totally calming and refreshing and when we were done, our group was so calm. We felt the blessing of it, we felt a peacefulness. It was really lovely.

We made our way back to our hotel and Nate, Sam, Brian and Ben and I promptly jumped into the pool. It was such a beautiful pool and so refreshing. I then made a quick change and wanted to go into the artisan handicraft area and see what they were making. It was filled with commercial items and not nearly the amazing craftsmanship of the lacquerware in Bagan, Myanmar. We made our way to the Old Town and markets and there were massage parlors and food shops and trinket shops. I walked around for about 15 mins and then took a tuk tuk back to the hotel. 

Tonight we ate at the hotel but they had a fabulous stage in the garden area of the pool where they served dinner and we watched a local Cambodian dance performance which included some kick boxing and women wearing the headdresses you hoped to see and dancing with their hands and feet arched and curved back. It was a lovely performance and perfect to be able to see while eating dinner. When we were done we crashed again and got ready of our last day in Cambodia and 5 a.m. wake up for Angkor Wat. 


March 15
We rose at 5 a.m. and made our way to Angkor Wat. It was our last day on the bike trip and in Cambodia. We had saved the best for last  and the main reason I had wanted to come on this trip. Our group sat on the outside of the temple and watched the morning glow rise up around the temple as we saw thousands literally enter the temple. After the masses had entered and the sun had risen we made our way across the gigantic mote that surrounds this largest religious structure on earth. They keep the water in the mote still because they feel it is part of the reason the temple has stayed intact since it hasn't sunken- apparently the water in the moat puts pressure on the temple grounds and keeps it solid and stable. The temple was built on the soil and silt dredged from the moat and packed down firmly. The temple was built originally as a Hindu temple and then made into a Buddhist temple. It is in amazing condition and has been cleaned, which is almost too bad since I loved the temples we saw yesterday that has some moss growing gone it. It has beautifully intact bass-relief stories told inside the temple all along the outer walls. Inside there are many large areas that must have been purifying pools and even on the highest tier there are 4 pools, none of which have water in them, for the king and his family. This temple unlike the temple we visited yesterday that was built as a Buddhist temple, has 3 levels which depicts the class system that is a large part of the Hindu beliefs. The other temple that was built as a Buddhist temple is all one level. We were able to go up to the highest level of the temple and see the views and the huge courtyard and pools on top. There are several buddha statues throughout Angkor Wat and it is in remarkably great condition since it is around 1000 years old. We enjoyed our time walking through all the rooms and round the temple and exited on the East side. It was spectacular. But honestly my favorite temple was the one we went to the day before with all the faces on all the towers. 

Angkor Wat was significant because it was built during the time where this really was the center of the Khmer Empire which encompassed what is now Laos, Thailand, Vietnam and Cambodia. This was the center of the world to this part of the world and this building made the statement that it was. 

We were packed up by 10:30 and made our way to the airport for our flight and then off to Bangkok. Bangkok was a much cleaner city than expected and very modern. Our hotel was in the city center and easy to catch the Sky Train. We arrived in the afternoon of the 15th after a morning sunrise visit to Angkor Wat in Cambodia. After checking in and being greeted with lovely welcome wreaths we caught the Sky Train, their above ground efficient rail system, to the Weekend Market. There Nate and Sam had some Phad Thai and I immediately went in to the maze of shops and stores that were packed and bustling. It is where locals and tourists do their big shopping and there are all kinds of street food vendors as well. I found a cute dress that I had seen at the Nam Hai for $165 and bought for $30. Love it! Picked up a couple bracelets and met up with the boys and enjoyed a cool train ride back to our hotel. We enjoyed a tasty dinner at the hotels Nami Tepanyaki restaurant- delicious. The girls arrived at 2:45 a.m. from Denver. I woke up to greet them and then headed back to bed.They had been traveling for 29 hours, with a delay in Tokyo. They were excited to begin their vacation!


Our team outside the Hue airport as we hop on our bikes for the first day of biking
Ancestor Worship Temple for a family that goes back 8 generations
Dragon Boats outside Hue
Rice paddies and peanuts

Ancestor Worship Temples
La Residencia in  Hue, Sam was the first one to arrive
Uncle Ben in the Emperor's Palace inside the Citadel
Hue Citadel
Sam and Donnie in Hue 






 Rice Paddies outside Hoi An





 Girls riding to school
 Little kids saying "hello"
 Boys all shouting hello

 War Memorial from "American" War
 Getting hosed down on a hot day outside Hoi An
 Sam captaining our boat over to Hoi An
 Fisherman throwing nets

 Vietnamese Cooking class
 City of Lanterns

Last night in Hoi An 
 Sound of Music meets the Tomb Raider Temple
 Tomb Raider Temple
 Naut, love her! She was the cutest sales girl that at the end I had to buy post cards from her after we talked and walked for like 15 mins. She is so smart and spoke better English than many adults. Loved her!
 Chatty and happy Brian is left speechless momentarily as he takes a spill. Obviously Rachel knows he will be up and at'em shortly. A little scuffed up but ready to rumble.
 Little kids just loving us riding by on our bikes shouting "Hello!!"
Pigs tied up to the back of a scooter, liked going to become bacon

 Water  Blessing






 At a Killing Fields Memorial remembering the 2 million people who were tortured and killed by the Khmer Rouge under the era of Pol Pot around 1975-79 (means Political Potential) who mass murdered anyone with any intelligence.






 Loved this temple built as a Buddhist Temple with the faces of Buddha, which are actually the image of the King who built this temple nearly 1000 years ago

 Cambodian traditional dance show

 Raffles in Siem Reap- lovely old French Colonial Hotel

 Morning sunrise with my boys









 Inside Angkor Wat near one of the Buddhist Shrines
 Donnie and Sam


 In the upper sanctum of Angkor Wat, originally built as a Hindu Temple nearly 1000 years ago and turned into a Buddhist Temple
 Looking out and down the entry of the world's largest religious structure

 Wrapping up a great bike trip at Angkor Wat

 Angkor Wat...Yvette and Karen...worlds best travel buddies
 "$2"
 Loved being with Yvette and Donnie on our bike trip
 Cowboy with horse and Angkor Wat
 Angkor Wat morning sunrise
 Welcome wreath from the hotel-- beautiful!
 Sky Train, the place to be
 Showing respect to Ronald
Syd and Austin make it to Bangkok to spend their spring break with Sam and I 


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